The Engadin, the valley of the En or Inn river in Eastern Switzerland, is, so far, my favorite region of the country — I previously shared photos from a trip to the Upper Engadin. In early October this year we planned to visit another part of the valley where we’d not yet been. I was very excited as the time approached, but also apprehensive; I had not reckoned on the fact that fall weather in that region was likely to be cold, stormy, even snowy…
Hoping for the best, we headed east under cloudy skies by way of Lucerne, stopping for a night near the abbey of Einsiedeln. I’d been wanting to visit that, too, for a long time, and this gave us a good opportunity without making an extra day trip.
The grand Baroque structure stands on a site that had been holy for many centuries, first as a hermitage, then a Benedictine monastery. Still a working monastery and school today, it has a fascinating history. I do recommend a visit if you’re ever in the area! We went on the daily public tour, which is unfortunately only in German, but I was pleased to find I understood most of it.
A tour is the only way to get into the famous Baroque library, though the church is open to the public. Services are held through the day, and we got to hear the beautiful late-afternoon service of Vespers sung by the monks.
The next day, it was still foggy as we drove over the Flüela pass, but as soon as we were on the other side of the mountains the clouds cleared, and we had glorious weather for our visit.
We stayed in two villages near the town of Scuol, which is famous for having springs with various mineral content–sulfur, iron, etc. There is a walking tour brochure showing where one can visit different public fountains for a sample of each. We never did that, nor made it to the spa with its multiple pools, but if I’m ever there on a rainy day, I’d definitely give it a visit.
Our first stay was in Ftan, a sunny plateau from which we took an easy hike further up and along the mountain ridge. This peaceful village was a place I’d love to return.
Then we spent a couple of nights in Sent, lower down and more thronged with tourists, who come there to admire the beautiful houses–and I do think it’s one of the most picturesque villages I’ve ever seen.
Ironically enough, this beauty came about partly because at one point the town became so poor many inhabitants had to leave to seek their fortunes in Italy (which is just over the next mountain ridge). There they became rich, often by opening confectioners and pastry shops, and returned to their home town with money to build. So goes the world…
The highlight here was a day hike along a side valley featuring some exciting suspension bridges, pausing at a historic lodge restaurant, then taking a shorter route to the next town where we could catch the bus back. (This is Switzerland, land of wilderness comforts.)
It was a glorious break, if too short. I already wonder when we can go back!